From: drela@athena.mit.edu (Mark Drela)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Problems with NOT using HG pins?
Date: 7 Apr 1994 00:43:59 GMT

In article <5APR199418531228@zeus.tamu.edu>, epm5369@zeus.tamu.edu (MADSEN, ERIC P) writes:
|> 	I recently removed my chain to clean my bike, and I replaced it 
|> 	without using one of those stupid HG pins.  Has anyone done this
|> 	and found any problems?  Must those ridiculous pins be used?
|> 	I haven't noticed any problems yet, but I haven't ridden the
|> 	bike very hard.

I've never used the special pins and I did bust a chain once on a mis-shift.

Then I figured out the trick:

 ***   Make sure the the pin is centered before 
 ***   you press it through the outer plate.

Haven't had a HG chain failure since (after many, many thousands of miles)

If you just blindly crank away on the chain tool, the pin will almost 
certainly deform the plate, or even gouge out a bit of the hole, 
giving a loose pin/plate joint (bad).  

To center the pin, you may have to bend the chain sideways while it's 
in the tool -- having three or four hands helps.  It's also important 
to use a HG-compatible chain tool.  I use the gold-colored one 
from Rivoli(?).  The regular Rivoli chain tool will deform the 
side plate even if you're careful.


                   Mark Drela
             _______________________________
    o/LO  .' 
     O  .'  Gravity-Powered Technologies Lab 
      .'  MIT Aero-Astro Department  37-475
     '

From: jbrandt@hpl.hp.com (Jobst Brandt)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.misc,rec.bicycles.tech,rec.bicycles.racing
Subject: Re: Anyone use tools like the Ritchey CPR for chain-breaking?
Date: 20 Oct 1998 16:09:05 GMT

Jeremy Svigals writes:

> I just bought a tool similar to the Ritchey CPR for the specific
> purpose of installing a new chain and I just can't seem to make the
> thing work.  I can separate the links with it fine, but afterwards
> it doesn't let go of the open pin and link.

Your description doesn't make clear to me where in the process you got
stuck.  When pushing the pin out, make sure that it is not completely
out or you will have little chance of putting it back together.
Beyond that, the pin should be pushed out only to the point where the
chain still will not come apart without bending it a little.  This
assists reconnecting it because it can be snapped together and it
will stay in place while pushing in the pin.

As far as taking the tool off the chain, articulate the chain into an
acute angle and it should lift off.  I prefer to remove the extra tabs
in the mouth of the chain tools anyway.  I find they do no good and
only get in the way.

Jobst Brandt      <jbrandt@hpl.hp.com>

From: jbrandt@hpl.hp.com (Jobst Brandt)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Ritchie CPR 13 chain tool?
Date: 12 Feb 1999 16:49:58 GMT

Matt O'Toole writes:

>> The reason this too does not have these is that chains do not all
>> have the same spacing and because the clearance should be small,
>> you cannot reasonably guess what that should be.

> There's no need to guess.  Just copy the dimensions of the Rivoli,
> which works on every chain sold in the last several years.  Plus,
> since about 9,999 out of 10,000 chains sold is a Sachs or Shimano,
> anything else can be considered too esoteric to worry about.

>> The way to do this is to press the pin in so that it protrudes
>> equally from both side plates and then manually spread them by
>> forcefully bending the chain sideways.  Because the chain has pin
>> clearance and must do this when running in offset sprockets, this
>> angling of the links naturally pushes the side plates apart.  When
>> the link turns freely, you have enough clearance.

> Yes, but using a well designed chain tool is 'so' much easier.

I don't believe you can do this with an aluminum light weight
emergency tool.  The CPR-9 is not designed to be used except in
emergency.  Regular chain maintenance should be done with a real tool
at home.  I carry a CPR-9 in my patch kit but never use it except when
something goes wrong on the road, such as recently when my derailleur
broke off when a stick went through it on a trail.  I rode fixed gear
on either the 50-15t or the 46-21t, that have nearly the exact same
chain length (i have vertical dropouts).  It just happened that no
other combinations fit a whole number of chain links.  The extra
links went in my pocket.

Jobst Brandt      <jbrandt@hpl.hp.com>

From: jobst.brandt@stanfordalumni.org
Subject: Re: Broken Spoke
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.misc
Message-ID: <007f9.20491$Ik.507137@typhoon.sonic.net>
Date: Mon, 09 Sep 2002 19:54:36 GMT

Mario Melendez Esquivel writes:

> I had a chain tool and somehow it managed to be lost... darnit. Of
> course that was about 5 years ago, have chains changed so much that
> if I should eventually find it it won't work?

Chain link pins have not changed size and that is about all you can
expect from a chain tool, that it can push out the pins.  All these
chain tools that claim to give proper spacing to the side plates
either miss the mark or were made for a chain I don't have.

After pushing the pin back in so that it protrudes equally from both
sides of the chain, Use the tried and true lateral bend technique to
achieve free rotation.  This requires bending the chain laterally and
forcefully enough to spread the outer plates enough to achieve
clearance for free articulation of the chain.

I don't intend to do a lot of chain maintenance in the field but it
happens now and then so I carry a Ritchey CPR9 that is in effect a
chain tool with all sorts of useful appendages.  It fits into my tire
patch kit.  Remember to grease the screw of this instrument when you
buy it or it won't do you much good.

Jobst Brandt  <jobst.brandt@stanfordalumni.org>  Palo Alto CA

From: jbrandt@hpl.hp.com (Jobst Brandt)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: SRAM Power Link-Does it work?
Date: 21 Mar 2001 17:01:32 GMT

Pete Biggs writes:

> Jobst, which chain tool do you recommend?

I have some no-name pliers that have two positions, one with a
push-out pin, the other with a recess to accept a chain link and
relief to accept the pin overstand.  It goes fast and requires some
manual dexterity.  It isn't an "open and shut" case.

As for when riding, I have an ancient "Dunlop Tyre Patch Kit" metal
box in which I carry a spoke wrench, 'p38' C-ration can opener,
Ritchey CPR9 (chain tool), rubber cement, patches, a piece of sanding
belt, two tire boots made of tubular casing, a freewheel remover, a
complete valve stem from a tubular, and a 3" crescent wrench.

The valve stem can be (and has been) used to go into a butyl tube
whose stem separated, leaving a round hole.

Jobst Brandt      <jbrandt@hpl.hp.com>