From: frisbie@flying-disk.com (Alan Frisbie)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Need good adhesive to mount brass nameplate to aluminium mount 
	plate
Date: 10 Nov 94 16:20:25 PST
Organization: Flying Disk Systems, Inc.

In article <Cyu4Cx.4M9@acsu.buffalo.edu>, 
v064mb9k@ubvms.cc.buffalo.edu (NEIL B. GANDLER) writes:

>      I am currently trying to determine the best type of
> adhesive I could use to bond a 3 x 1 inch x 16th thick brass
> engraved nameplate to a similar dimensioned piece of
> aluminium to act as a mount. I want an adhesive the works
> with a relatively thin layer that dries clean and is easy to
> remove excess with a mild chemical. I also would like an
> adhesive the will provide a very strong permanent bond
> especially over time that allows some movement and play
> before completely drying. If such a product exists, I would
> like to know. I would appreciative any advice.

Ordinary double-sided tape may do the job for you.   The roll I
have is only 1/2" wide, but I am sure I have seen it in 1"
wide rolls.   The label is gone from mine, but I remember that
it was made by 3M (Scotch).    Check a well-stocked stationery
store.

Another 3M product that is actually made for your application
is their type 467 (2 mil) or 468 (5 mil - for rougher surfaces)
laminating adhesive.   They were specifically developed for
the nameplate industry and exhibit excellent holding strength
and outstanding aging for a long term bond.   If you need
higher temperature (above 350 F) resistance, adhesion to HSE 
plastics (see below), or exceptional shear strength, try the 
-MP variant of either one.   Neither variant will work worth a
damm on LSE plastics (there are other products for these).

The only parts that don't meet your specifications are that 
the adhesive is very solvent resistant and the bond is
INSTANT.   You will NOT be able to move it once you apply
the nameplate.

They normally come in rolls with a polycoated kraft liner.
The adhesive is unrolled and applied to the nameplate.   This
leaves a sandwich of nameplate/adhesive/liner.   The liner
can then be removed and the nameplate/adhesive combination
stuck to the equipment or whatever.

If you want to try some, I could send you a small sheet.  One
of my clients uses a lot of it.   I would suggest that the
one you should use is type 467.   This is because the metals
are smooth, you want a thin layer, and both 467 and 467-MP
have superior adhesion to metals.

A very few people (I am one) are sensitive to the -MP version.
Whenever I smell it, I have a strong urge to vomit.   I have
not met anyone else who has this problem, but you might want
to consider this.

Notes:

HSE = High Surface Energy Plastics: Kapton, Phenolic, Nylon,
Alkyd enamel, Polyester, Epoxy paint, Polyurethane paint, ABS,
Polycarbonate, PVC, Noryl, Acrylic, Polane paint.

LSE = Low Surface Energy Plastics: PVA, Polystyrene, Acetal,
EVA, Polyethylene, Polypropylene, Tedlar, Teflon.

Metals have *extremely* high surface energies (10-30 times
that of HSE plastics), copper and aluminum being the highest.

--  Alan E. Frisbie               Frisbie@Flying-Disk.Com
--  Flying Disk Systems, Inc.
--  4759 Round Top Drive          (213) 256-2575 (voice)
--  Los Angeles, CA 90065         (213) 258-3585 (FAX)

Subject: Re: Plexiglass ahesive for bandsaw shroud
From: dwilkins@orion.polaristel.net (Don Wilkins)
Date: Jul 19 1996
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

On Wed, 17 Jul 1996 23:08:06 +1000, shermanp@terrestrial.com (Sherman
Paskett) wrote:

>In article <don_dumont.3.31EDB6D1@mindlink.bc.ca>
>don_dumont@mindlink.bc.ca (Don DuMont) writes:
>
>>I realize that this is stretching "woodworking", but I have built a
>>shroud for dust collection purposes on my bandsaw, but the
>>plexiglass(trade name -Lexan) will not stay together.  I am using slow
>>setting epoxy glue by Lepage but it will not hold and the guard comes
>>apart.  Does anyone out there have some recommendations as to some kind
>>of glue for use with plexiglass?
>
>Most stores that sell sheet lexan or plexiglass usually sell adhesives.  
>Typically I believe MEK can be used.  It partially dissolves the plastic.  
>Coat both surfaces, stick it together, and hold it for a minute or two.
>
>Epoxy is not a good choice because usually at least one surface is extremely 
>smooth.  Might as well use Elmers.  I have had success using super glue on 
>small pieces.

Hold on a minute here. Plexiglas and Lexan are not the same beast.
Plexiglas is a registered trademark for methyl methacrylate type
polymers whereas Lexan is a polycarbonate. 

What the poster is describing is solvent bonding and ketones will work
for plexiglass. Lexan is another story. Acetone (a ketone) will cause
crazing in Lexan and render the piece useless. MEK is an acronym for
methyl ethyl ketone and I suspect it will also cause crazing in Lexan.

Methylene chloride is the solvent used in the manufacture of Lexan and
may work for solvent bonding. I have been retired too long and suspect
an attack of Alzheimer has placed the details in some obscure brain
cell which is not accessible at this time.

From: drela@athena.mit.edu (Mark Drela)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Glue For Polystyrine?
Date: 6 Jan 1995 00:38:25 GMT

In article <D1yBD5.66@qdpii.ind.dpi.qld.gov.au>, gordonp@qdpii.ind.dpi.qld.gov.au (Peter Gordon) writes:

|> Hi,
|> Does anyone know of a glue which bonds to polystyrene and is both
|> strong and waterproof.
|> 
|> The velcro tabs which hold the padding on my helmet have fallen off.
|> The helmet is a Bell Image, and the original glue appers to be
|> some kind of gum.
|> 
|> I've tried araldite and double sided mounting tape without much success.

Almost any adhesive with an aromatic solvent will bond very well to
polystyrene.  The problem you'll most likely have is bonding to the
velcro base, which is probably Nylon or polypropylene, both of which
are quite inert and difficult to bond.  Your best bet is probably a
contact cement, like Weldwood or Pliobond.  Wipe it onto the foam
quickly and in a very thin layer -- any large glob will merrily melt
its way into the foam.  Try a test on a scrap piece of styrofoam.  If
it melts too easily, you can try something called Southern Sorgum,
which is a contact cement with a solvent which doesn't melt
pylystyrene.  Any good RC Model Airplane store will have it.

                   Mark Drela
             _______________________________
    o/LO  .' 
     O  .'  Gravity-Powered Technologies Lab 
      .'  MIT Aero-Astro Department  37-475
     '

From: gwhite@alum.mit.edu (Doug White)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Glue for Delrin
Date: Sat, 13 Feb 1999 15:44:49 GMT

In article <01be5633$9e6829e0$a29161ce@default>, "Bill S."
<revision@hia.net> wrote:

>Does anyone know of a glue or epoxy that will bond Delrin?

The secret to getting a good bond on Delrin & other 'greasy' feeling
plastics is usually to use some sort of surface treatment like a primer.
This etches the surface of the material, and gives the glue something to
hang on to.

Loctite has a design guide for bonding plastics that shows that the
difference between using their Prism 401 Cyanoacrylate with & without
their Prism 770 primer is a yield strength of 7200 psi vs 200 psi on
plain unfilled resin.  Using plain Super Bonder 414 Cyanoacrylate
without a primer gets you 500 psi, which was the next closest they have
listed to the 7200 psi using the primer.

Surface roughening helps, and I would wash any polymer like this with
alchohol before bonding to remove the oiliness.  The primers are
typically really nasty solvents or acids, and should be used with care.

Loctite is primarily in the cyanoacrylate business, and they didn't list
how well epoxy would work.  The same sort of surface treatment should
work with epoxy.  Another trick you can use on some plastics is to wave a
flame over the area to be bonded.  This breaks down the surface sort of
like the primers do, but it's tricky to do without melting things.

If I didn't want to track down a primer, I would roughen the surface just
a little with fine sandpaper, wash it with alchohol and use whatever
cyanoacylate adhesive I have handy.  I would also be prepared for it to
let go if any real stress was applied.  If you really need a strong bond,
I'd do some more research with both the adhesive vendors and the palstic
manufacturers to see what more you can find out.  I have an engineering
data sheet from DuPont on Delrin, and it doesn't even _mention_ gluing,
so it's not something they are wild about.

Doug White